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and tips (as I have time).  BOUGHT THE KIT FROM MARK AT ABOLUTEHELIS.COM - very good
customer service and pricing.
Spend a lot of time on the internet or at Modellsports site going over the forums before you build this.  
These are the most important ones that I did:

- I boiled the E018's, the main head (with nuts as spacers to keep it open during cooking),
the tail gears and the tail assembly holder (use spacers like with the head) for 40 minutes
at a simmer.  This needs to be done because the parts, as they come, are too brittle.
- I put the main gear in hot water and let it sit overnight (tap hot).
- DO NOT glue the spacer to the main shaft as part of the final attachment.  Instead, I put a
6 mm (probably should be 8) piece of silicone tube on, then the spacer and didn't glue it at all.
This holds up great in flight as the load pulls the gear up into the bearing but releases in a crash
saving you stripping various gear teeth.  THIS IS THE BIGGEST FIX!
- DO have sitting around a Duratrax 3x6 FLANGED bearing to replace the tail pitch slider
assembly bearing when (not if)  it seperates from the slider.  This is the worst part of the
design of the machine so far but can probably be fiixed this way.
- Plan on putting the pushrods into the FARTHEST hole on the cyclic servo arms, not the closest
one in.  While you will have to tone down ATV's, this gives you better resolution.
- I use 25% POSITIVE (yep) expo on the Ail, Ele and Rud servos.
- Create a plastic or wood spacer for under the fore/aft servo so that the arm doesn't hit the
main frame.
- I made a plate to attach my vertical fin to using heavy duty double sided tape rather than
gluing.  This let's me change them out for other designs for a different canopy.
- Attach the battery with a simple rubber band rather than the supplied setup - it sucks.

THE FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS:

First attempts were awful.  Was way too mushy and uncontrollable.  I had negative expo on the fore/aft
and roll servos.  I had rushed the finish to take it to Birmingham.  Gary Wright walked over while I was
hovering it and I handed him the box.  He looked real smooth for a minute and then started a slow
circle.  It came at us and he yelled out that it didn't have enough forward elevator.  We all hit the ground
as it went over us and he brought it back in without a scratch.

Turns out this machine is very sensitive to CG placement.  Move the battery rather than the trim at first
to fix fore/aft issues.  Also, set it up to be sensitive, not desensitive, around the middle.  Set up a Thottle
hold switch as well (not a condition if you can differentiate) for working on the model and moving it
from place to place while plugged in.

I also set up a T-R P-Mix for the lower 25% stick position.  This stops the hard rotation on quick
decents that the gyro can't compensate for.  It turns OFF with T-hold so I can work on the Rud limits.

I am still hovering as it has been too windy for forward flight.  It feels good now in a hover but requires
busy hands on cyclic.  STAY AHEAD OF ANY OSCILLATIONS and come off the power slightly if it
starts to do it.  In general, you have to stay ahead of the helicopter unlike anything else I've ever flown.  
It can be like trying to fly RealFlight G2 on a slow Pentium with 4 MB graphics card.  Low frame rate
man!

ON THE GOOD SIDE:

I can tell you from personal experience that you can run this thing into a wall, a bed, a chair and a cat
and it still lives with only CA type repairs so far.  This will be THE micro-heli platform going forward
when some upgrades come out!

                                        MADMAN